Immigrants constitute a growing share of Metropolitan youth today in Western Europe and are actively contributing to the making of European world-cities such as Paris and Berlin. Whether born to post-war migrants to Europe or recently arrived, migrant youth “integration process” in several domains such as education and labour market has come under tight scrutinity[1]. Embedded in the mainstream acculturation model[2] in which “the migrant experience is presented in terms of a series of phases that must culminate with a successful incorporation into the host culture »[3], these researches tend to leave aside broader cultural dynamics and exchanges that take place between immigrants and the larger society as well as the role of consumption in these processes. In a period of massive flows of transmigration and border crossings, consumption and material culture become resources to exchange meaning between groups, but also to perform, affirm, and manage the self in relation to others. For young adults with migrant and non-migrant background, the act of consuming is even more important when it comes to fashion and beauty, and as an integral part of their identity performance across the intersectionality of the self’s experience of gender, race, and class.
Because they tend to be more experimental, a focus on immigrant youth fashion and beauty consumption seems to be especially productive and allows therefore the examination of cultural exchange in everyday life. It helps to understand contemporary transnationality in post-migrant societies better.
This third CIERA workshop is therefore organised to further explore through an interdisciplinary perspective the transformative power of migrants in fashion and beauty standards, consumption and socio-cultural practices in the context of European societies. It will bring together junior and senior scholars of migration, fashion and beauty culture studies from France and Germany and from various disciplinary backgrounds to explore how migrants are transforming European (fashion and beauty) cultures. The objective will be to understand how migrant designers, retailers and (young) migrant consumers are taking part in these changes within the contexts of the countries’ very different (post)colonial and migration histories. Our interdisciplinary approach will be both comparative (German-French) and diachronic in order to firstly, overcome disciplinary and national frameworks of analysis and, secondly, to systematically account for historical developments and national path dependencies that still shape Europe today.
16.03.16
10h30 Salle 408 (4e étage) de la Maison des Sciences de l'Homme-Paris Nord
Mot de bienvenue
11h15 Podium Vortrag : Prof. Dr. Nancy GREEN (CRH, EHESS) : Migration et Confection : la production de la mode à Paris et à New York, 1900-2000
12h15 – 13h45 Pause déjeuner buffet
14h00 – 17h30
Panel 1 : Immigrants' clothing and styles : creating a European cosmopolitan fashion model?
Chair : Claudia LIEBELT (Universität Bayreuth), Vincenzo CICCHELLI (Gemass, U. Paris IV)
Kristell Blache-Comte (IIAC-LAHIC, EHESS, photographe), Blogs de mode made in France et résurgence d’un ailleurs.
Juliane Kanitz (Humboldt Universität zu Berlin), The Headscarf as a Business Card - Statements of Fashion and Other Communications.
15h45- 16h00 Pause café
Özkan EZLI (Universität Konstanz), Von der Artikulation zur Praxis. 'Was lebst Du?' oder der
Burkini als neue Form postkolonialer Identifikation.
19h30 Diner
17.03.16
8h30 Salle de réunion 408 de la Maison des Sciences de l'Homme (4e étage) - Accueil café
8h30-12h00
Panel 2 : Bodies under pressure : immigrant bodies and discourses on health & beauty
Chair : Maren Möhring (Universität Leipzig), Kristell BLACHE-COMTE (IIAC-LAHIC, EHESS)
Laurence Tibère (CERTOP, Université de Toulouse), Perceptions du "corps gros" (Maliens, Marocains au pays et en Ile de France).
Nikolina Skenderija (Humboldt Universität Berlin), Das Fett der Anderen.
10h30- 10h45 Pause café
Emmanuel COHEN (Musée de l'Histoire Naturelle), Le rapport à la corpulence chez les migrants camerounais en région parisienne.
12h00 – 13h00 Pause déjeuner buffet
Panel 3 : From margins to centres : how migrant cosmetic practices and places are transforming beauty spaces in Europe
Chair : Marie POINSOT (Hommes et Migrations), Özkan EZLI (Universität Konstanz)
Claudia LIEBELT (Universität Bayreuth), Manufacturing Beauty, Grooming Selves: The Creation of Femininities in the Global Economy.
Caroline Schmitt ( Universität Mainz), Jenseits‚ migrantischer Nischen‘ – Betreiber_innen von Afro Hair Salons als 'sociocultural entrepreneurs'
14h45- 15h00 Pause café
Virginie Silhouette-Dercourt (Université Paris 13, CEPN), Black beauty : jeux de frontières, mises en scène de soi et cosmopolitisme par le bas à Paris et Berlin
Remerciements / Danksagung et next steps
[1] See for example, The Integration of the European Second Generation (TIES) project http://www.tiesproject.eu/content/view/24/32/lang%2cen/index.html
[2] e.g., Berry, 1980,1985, 1990, 1997; Berry & Sam, 1997; Berry, Kim, Minde, & Mok, 1987; Berry, Kim, Power, Young & Bujaki, 1989.
[3] Bhatia & Ram, 2008.
Organisation /Veranstalterinnen
Maren Möhring (Universität Leipzig) & Virginie Silhouette-Dercourt
(UP 13, CEPN, Centre Marc Bloch, Sociétés Plurielles)
Contact